An honest jeweler's explanation of what the 925 stamp actually means — composition, hallmarks, why it tarnishes, how to spot fake silver, and why it remains the international standard for fine silver jewelry.
925 sterling silver is an alloy of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals (typically copper) — the international standard for fine silver jewelry, used by every major luxury jeweler from Tiffany & Co. to Cartier.
The number 925 refers to the parts-per-thousand silver purity. It is genuine real silver, not silver-plated or silver-toned costume jewelry. It tarnishes naturally because of the small copper content reacting with air, but tarnish polishes off completely. As an investment, a piece of 925 sterling silver carries roughly $0.85–$1.00 of raw silver value per gram at 2026 spot prices, before craftsmanship.
As a working jeweler, the question I get asked more than any other is whether 925 sterling silver is real. The answer is yes, and the question itself reveals how poorly the silver industry has explained itself to its own customers. The 925 stamp is one of the oldest and most rigorously enforced quality marks in the entire jewelry trade — older than karat marks for gold, older than the GIA's diamond grading system, older than most countries' consumer protection laws. And yet the average buyer is not sure what it means, partly because the silver market is flooded with silver-plated, silver-tone, and silver-filled imitations that deliberately blur the line.
This guide is written from the inside. Aquamarise stamps 925 on every piece of sterling silver we make. We source the metal from refiners, alloy it to specification, and submit our hallmarks for verification. We deal with tarnish on customer pieces every week. We get asked at least once a day whether sterling silver is "fake." The information here is not hypothetical — it is what we know because we work with this material every day.
By the end of this guide you will know exactly what 925 sterling silver is at the chemistry level, what the hallmark guarantees you legally, why it tarnishes and how to stop it, how to tell real silver from clever fakes, and how it compares to fine silver, vermeil, silver-plated, and silver-filled alternatives. You will also know its honest weaknesses — there are some — and the situations where it is the wrong choice. The goal is to make you the informed buyer the silver trade has historically failed to create.
The 925 stamp is not a marketing label. It is a legally-enforced material guarantee that has been refined over 900 years of European hallmarking law. Understanding what it actually promises is the difference between buying real silver and buying expensive plated brass.
The Composition of 925 Sterling Silver — What's Actually In It
The 925 sterling silver meaning is precise and verifiable: an alloy at a specific purity. The question of is 925 silver good quality has a clear answer once you understand the alloy ratio.
Pure silver — the metal jewelers call "fine silver" or "999 silver" — is 99.9% pure elemental silver (Ag, atomic number 47). It is genuinely soft. Pure silver scores roughly 2.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, which is softer than your fingernail. A ring made of pure silver would deform from daily handshakes, dent against a desk, and lose its shape within weeks. This is why pure silver has almost never been used for jewelry intended for daily wear — it is reserved for collector coins, bullion bars, and specialty pieces that live in display cases.
To make silver wearable, jewelers have alloyed it with harder metals for at least 3,000 years. The 92.5% / 7.5% ratio that we now call "sterling" was standardized in 12th-century England as a coinage specification — King Henry II established it as the legal silver standard for English currency around 1158, and the ratio has remained essentially unchanged for nine centuries. The 7.5% addition is the alchemy that turns soft useless silver into a structural metal that can be cast, forged, hammered, polished, and worn for decades.
92.5% Silver (Ag): The base metal. Provides the optical character (the cool white luster that no other metal matches), the high thermal and electrical conductivity, and most of the material value.
7.5% Copper (Cu): The traditional alloying metal. Adds enormous structural hardness, brings the alloy from Mohs 2.5 (pure silver) to Mohs 3.5–4 (still soft compared to gold or platinum, but workable for jewelry). The copper is also the reason sterling silver tarnishes.
Modern variants: Some contemporary sterling silver alloys substitute small amounts of zinc, germanium, or platinum for portions of the copper. Argentium silver (a registered formulation) replaces copper with germanium for dramatically reduced tarnishing. These are still legally 925 sterling silver — the 92.5% silver content is what matters; the alloying metals can vary.
The 92.5% / 7.5% ratio is not arbitrary. Higher silver content (such as 95% or "Britannia silver") makes the metal too soft for rings and chains. Lower silver content (such as 90% or "coin silver") was historically used for utensils and was less suitable for fine jewelry because the higher copper content shifted the color toward warm tan and the metal tarnished faster. The 92.5% ratio is the optimum point — high enough to retain silver's cool-white luster and material value, low enough to give the alloy real structural integrity. Nine centuries of jewelers and metallurgists have tested alternatives; the sterling specification persists because it works.
A 900-Year History — From Henry II to Tiffany & Co.
The 925 standard predates the United States, the Industrial Revolution, and modern chemistry. Its enforcement history is part of why it remains trustworthy today.
Hallmarks Worldwide — What 925 Looks Like Around the Globe
If you have ever wondered what does 925 mean on jewelry stamped near a clasp or inside a ring — this is the answer, country by country.
The hallmarking system is essentially government-enforced quality assurance, and different countries have different rules. The core 925 mark is universal. The supplementary marks vary, and learning to read them tells you not just that a piece is real silver but where it was made, sometimes by whom, and roughly when.
United Kingdom — The Original Standard
UK hallmarks include up to four marks: the maker's mark (sponsor's initials), the assay office town mark (London = leopard's head; Birmingham = anchor; Sheffield = rose; Edinburgh = castle), the sterling silver standard mark (lion passant), and a date letter indicating year of assay. By UK law, any silver item over 7.78 grams must be assayed and hallmarked.
United States — The 925 Stamp
U.S. silver is typically marked simply "925", ".925", "S925", or "STERLING" — sometimes with the maker's trademark. There is no national assay office. The FTC enforces accuracy of marking under the Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries: false marking is a federal offense. Most reputable U.S. jewelers self-certify and undergo periodic XRF testing.
European Union — The 925 Convention
EU member states recognize the Vienna Convention on the Control of the Fineness and the Hallmarking of Precious Metal Objects (CCM), which uses a common 925 mark plus national assay office stamps. Italian sterling silver typically shows "925" with the manufacturer's province code. French silver shows the Minerva head plus a number indicating fineness category.
India — BIS Hallmarking
The Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) operates a mandatory hallmarking system for silver. Indian sterling silver carries the BIS standard mark (a triangle), the purity grade (925), the assaying center code, and the jeweller's identification number. Hallmarking became mandatory for all jewelry sold in India in 2021, making Indian-origin sterling silver among the most reliably authenticated in the world.
Antique pieces often lack 925 stamps because hallmarking laws have evolved. Pre-1973 American silver often shows only "STERLING" or "STER" without the 925 number. Truly old British silver may show only the lion passant. Lack of a 925 stamp does not automatically mean a piece is fake — but it does mean you cannot legally rely on the piece being sterling without independent testing. Always XRF-test unmarked pieces before treating them as sterling.
Is It Real, Is It Fake? — Five Reliable Tests
The single most-asked question about 925 silver. Here are the five tests that actually work, in order from easiest to most definitive.
Look for the stamp first.
Real 925 sterling silver is almost always stamped. Look for "925", ".925", "S925", "STERLING", "STER", or in the UK the lion passant plus assay office mark. The stamp is usually on the inside of rings, near the clasp on chains, or on the back of pendants. Absence of a stamp is a yellow flag, not proof of fakery (antique and small pieces sometimes lack stamps), but the absence shifts the burden of proof onto the seller.
The magnet test.
Real silver is non-magnetic — silver is a diamagnetic metal that very weakly repels magnetic fields rather than attracting them. If a strong neodymium magnet sticks to your "silver" piece, it is not solid silver. The test is simple, free, and definitive: it cannot give a false positive (real silver will never attract a magnet). It can give a false negative — some silver-plated items have non-magnetic base metals like brass or copper underneath — so failing the magnet test rules out solid silver but passing it does not prove sterling.
The polish test.
Take a clean white cloth and rub the piece firmly. Real sterling silver leaves a faint black residue on the cloth — that is the surface tarnish (silver sulfide and copper oxide) coming off. Fake silver typically leaves no residue, or leaves residue of a different color (green from copper alloys, orange from brass). This test takes ten seconds and reliably distinguishes sterling from costume jewelry.
The ice test.
Place an ice cube on the silver piece and another on a non-silver surface (like a ceramic plate). Real sterling silver melts ice dramatically faster than non-silver materials — silver has the highest thermal conductivity of any metal, more than 5x that of copper or brass. The ice on real silver will visibly melt within 30–60 seconds; on fake silver it melts at room-temperature speed. The test works because solid silver is unique in its thermal behavior; nothing else in normal jewelry use behaves the same way.
The XRF test (definitive).
For absolute certainty, take the piece to a jeweler with X-ray fluorescence (XRF) testing equipment. XRF reads the exact metal composition of a surface non-destructively — within seconds, you get a printout showing the precise percentage of silver, copper, and any other metals in the piece. Most jewelers offer this as a complimentary service or for a small fee. If the XRF shows ≥92.5% silver, the piece is genuine sterling regardless of what stamps it does or doesn't carry.
If your "silver" piece fails the magnet test, leaves no polish residue, and feels suspiciously light or warm — it is silver-plated, silver-toned, or pure costume jewelry, not sterling. Reputable jewelers will always disclose plating and provide testing on request. Aquamarise XRF-tests every batch of sterling silver before manufacturing.
Why Sterling Silver Tarnishes — And How to Stop It
Tarnishing is the single most-asked silver care question. The chemistry is simple, the prevention is simpler, and the fix is permanent.
Yes, sterling silver tarnishes. Tarnishing is the sterling owner's universal frustration, and it is also one of the most misunderstood aspects of the metal. Understanding the chemistry — which takes about ninety seconds — eliminates most of the mystery and reveals why tarnish is actually a much smaller problem than it appears.
Pure silver does not meaningfully tarnish. Pure silver reacts very slowly with atmospheric oxygen and is essentially stable in normal indoor conditions. The element responsible for tarnishing is the 7.5% copper in the sterling alloy. Copper reacts readily with sulfur compounds in the atmosphere — particularly hydrogen sulfide (H₂S), which is present in trace amounts in normal air and in much higher concentrations near sources like rotten eggs, certain industrial processes, household chemicals, hot springs, and even some natural skin chemistries.
The chemical reaction is straightforward: copper + hydrogen sulfide → copper sulfide (a black surface compound). This appears as the characteristic yellow-to-brown-to-black tarnish on sterling silver. The reaction is entirely surface-level — the copper sulfide forms a thin layer over the silver, hiding its luster. The underlying metal is not damaged, not weakened, not chemically altered below the surface. Polish the tarnish off and the silver underneath is identical to the day it was made.
Sulfur exposure: Hot springs, hard-boiled eggs, onions, garlic, certain wool fabrics, and rubber bands. Avoid wearing silver during cooking with sulfur-rich foods, and never store silver in rubber-sealed containers.
Humidity: Moisture catalyzes the sulfide reaction. Silver tarnishes faster in coastal climates, bathrooms, and during humid summers. Never store silver in unsealed bathroom storage.
Skin chemistry: Some wearers have naturally higher skin sulfur content, and their silver tarnishes faster. This is genetic and not a sign of a problem with the silver itself. The fix is more frequent polishing, not avoiding silver.
How to Prevent Tarnishing
Storage is 90% of the battle. Sterling silver stored properly tarnishes minimally even over years. Store each piece in an airtight bag (Ziploc works perfectly) with an anti-tarnish strip (available cheaply online). Add a small silica gel packet to absorb moisture. Stored this way, silver retains its polished luster for years between cleanings.
Wear it often. Silver worn daily tarnishes less than silver left in a drawer — your skin oils provide a slight protective coating, and physical contact rubs off micro-tarnish before it builds. Counterintuitively, the silver in your active jewelry rotation will look better than the piece in your jewelry box.
Clean before storage. Always wipe sterling silver with a soft cloth before storing, especially after wearing in sulfur-rich environments (cooking, swimming, sweating). Removing surface oils and chlorides slows the tarnishing chemistry.
How to Remove Existing Tarnish
For light tarnish, a sterling silver polishing cloth (sold at most jewelers) restores luster in 30 seconds with no chemicals. For heavier tarnish, a brief dip in commercial silver cleaner (Tarn-X, Wright's Silver Cream) removes everything in seconds — these solutions chemically dissolve silver sulfide back to clean silver. For pieces with gemstone settings, never use chemical dips (they can damage some stones); use only a polishing cloth or a soft toothbrush with diluted dish soap.
Full silver care guidance lives in our complete jewelry care guide and our warranty and care policy, both of which cover tarnish prevention, cleaning protocols, and what to do if you cause damage during cleaning.
925 vs. Other Silvers — Sterling, Fine, Argentium & Britannia
The sterling silver vs silver question and the 925 silver vs sterling silver question come up constantly — but the most important thing to understand is that "what is sterling silver" has a single technical answer that holds across every standard. Several silver standards exist, and they are not interchangeable.
| Silver Type | Purity | Hardness | Tarnishing | Use Case |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Silver (999) | 99.9% | Mohs 2.5 (very soft) | Minimal | Bullion, collector coins, art pieces |
| Britannia Silver (958) | 95.8% | Mohs 2.7 (soft) | Slow | Display silverware, ceremonial pieces |
| Sterling Silver (925) | 92.5% | Mohs 3.5–4 (workable) | Moderate | Fine jewelry, daily wear — global standard |
| Argentium Silver (935+) | 93.5%+ | Mohs 3.8 (workable) | Dramatically reduced | Premium tarnish-resistant jewelry |
| Coin Silver (900) | 90.0% | Mohs 4 (hardest) | Faster | Antique American silver, no longer made |
| European 800 Silver | 80.0% | Mohs 4.2 (hard) | Fastest | Antique European utensils, lower-tier jewelry |
The takeaway: 925 sterling silver sits at the engineering sweet spot for jewelry. Higher silver content (Britannia, fine) is too soft for daily wear. Lower silver content (coin, 800 European) is harder but tarnishes faster, looks slightly tan rather than cool-white, and contains less material value. Sterling's 92.5% is the optimum point for the trade-off between softness, hardness, color, and tarnish resistance — which is why nine centuries of jewelers have settled on it.
925 vs. Vermeil, Plated & Filled — Don't Get Tricked
The biggest source of "fake silver" confusion is mixing up these four very different categories. Here is the honest difference.
92.5% silver alloy throughout the entire piece. The metal you see on the surface is the same metal in the core. Cannot wear off because there is no coating to wear. Lasts indefinitely with care. Genuinely fine jewelry. This is the standard Aquamarise uses for all sterling pieces.
Solid 925 sterling silver base with a substantial layer of real gold (legally minimum 2.5 microns thick by FTC standard). The gold is real gold; the silver underneath is real silver. Combines silver's structural integrity with gold's surface color. See our full gold vermeil guide and the gold vermeil jewelry collection for examples.
A thin layer of silver (often 1–10 microns thick) electroplated onto a base metal — usually brass, copper, or nickel. The visible surface is silver, but the bulk of the piece is not. The silver layer wears off over months to years of wear, exposing the base metal underneath. This is what most people mean by "fake silver" — it is technically real silver on the surface but the piece is mostly base metal.
A layer of sterling silver (typically 5–10% of the total weight) mechanically bonded to a base metal core. Thicker and more durable than plated, less expensive than solid sterling. The silver layer can wear thin over decades but lasts substantially longer than plating. A reasonable middle option, but not equivalent to solid sterling.
These descriptors mean no silver content at all — they describe the color of the metal, not its composition. Silver-tone jewelry is typically nickel, brass, or aluminum that has been polished or plated to mimic silver's appearance. It is costume jewelry, often priced accordingly, and not a substitute for sterling silver. Reputable jewelers always specify metal composition explicitly. If the listing says only "silver-tone" or "silver-finish," there is no real silver in the piece.
The Value of 925 Sterling Silver — What It Actually Costs
The 925 silver price tracks the silver spot market plus craftsmanship overhead. Here is the honest breakdown.
The raw material value of 925 sterling silver is calculable to the gram. As of 2026, silver spot price is approximately $30 per troy ounce (roughly $0.96 per gram of pure silver). A piece of 925 sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver, so the raw silver content is worth approximately $0.89 per gram in pure metal value. A 10-gram sterling silver chain holds about $9 in raw silver content; a 50-gram chunky sterling cuff holds about $44 in raw silver.
That is not what you pay at retail, of course. The retail price of a sterling silver piece is roughly 3-10x the raw silver value, with the multiplier covering: alloying and refining costs (turning silver bars into usable casting metal), design and CAD work, mold production, casting or hand-forging labor, polishing and finishing, hallmarking and assay fees, gemstone setting if applicable, packaging and brand premium, and the jeweler's margin. A simple plain 10-gram sterling silver ring might retail for $40-80; an intricately handcrafted 10-gram sterling ring with set stones can retail $200-500. The difference is craftsmanship, not silver content.
| Item Weight | Raw Silver Value | Typical Retail (Plain) | Typical Retail (Designer) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5 grams (small ring) | ~$4–$5 | $25–$60 | $80–$200 |
| 10 grams (chain or chunky ring) | ~$9 | $40–$100 | $150–$400 |
| 20 grams (statement ring or small pendant) | ~$18 | $80–$180 | $300–$700 |
| 50 grams (cuff bangle or large pendant) | ~$44 | $180–$400 | $600–$1,500+ |
For couples weighing sterling silver vs. solid gold for an engagement ring or wedding band, the raw cost difference is enormous: 14k solid gold runs roughly $40-50 per gram in raw value, where 925 sterling sits at $0.89 per gram. A solid gold ring identical in design to a sterling silver ring will cost roughly 50x more in raw material. For full guidance on choosing between metals, see our precious metal guide and the complete metal selection guide.
When Sterling Silver Is Right For You — The Honest Answer
Sterling is genuinely fine jewelry, but it is not the right choice for every buyer. Here is when it is — and isn't.
You love the cool-white luster of silver (which gold cannot replicate). You want fine jewelry that feels substantial and looks luxurious without solid-gold pricing. You are willing to do basic care (polishing every few months, proper storage). You want a piece that holds real material value indefinitely. You are not allergic to copper (the alloying metal in sterling).
You absolutely will not maintain the piece (sterling tarnishes if neglected). You have a copper allergy or reactive skin (try Argentium silver or solid gold instead). You need maximum durability for very rough lifestyles (consider Damascus steel, tungsten, or solid platinum). You want maximum heirloom value (solid gold appreciates better than silver). You prefer warm metal tones (look at yellow gold vermeil or solid gold).
Engagement rings on tighter budgets where stones are the priority. Statement cocktail rings where size matters more than metal cost. Promise rings, friendship rings, anniversary stacking bands. Pieces with substantial colored stones where silver's cool tone enhances stones like aquamarine, sapphire, moonstone, or pearl. Aquamarise's sterling silver aquamarine collection is a direct example of why these pairings work.
For more durability with the silver look: solid platinum or palladium (very expensive). For warmer tones with sterling base: gold vermeil (sterling + real gold plating). For dark/gothic aesthetics: black ruthenium over sterling. For tarnish-free silver: Argentium silver. For maximum heirloom value: solid 14k or 18k gold.
Frequently Asked Questions About 925 Sterling Silver
Ten questions answered — covering authenticity, value, tarnishing, hallmarks, and the full buying decision.
What is 925 sterling silver?
925 sterling silver is an alloy made of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals — most commonly copper, with small amounts of zinc, germanium, or platinum in some modern formulations. Pure silver (99.9%, called fine silver) is too soft for jewelry, so the alloy is the industry standard for rings, earrings, necklaces, and pendants that need to hold their shape and resist daily wear. The number 925 refers to the parts-per-thousand purity standard and is the same as the .925 stamp, the S925 stamp, or simply "sterling" in older British and American jewelry. Browse our sterling silver jewelry collection to see sterling silver pieces in production.
Is 925 sterling silver real silver?
Yes — 925 sterling silver is real silver. The number 925 is a legally-defined purity guarantee meaning the alloy is 92.5% pure silver. In the United States, the FTC requires that anything stamped "sterling" or "925" contain at least 92.5% silver by weight. In the UK, the same standard is enforced by the Assay Office hallmarking system. Sterling silver is the same material used by Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and every other major jeweler for silver pieces — it is the international standard for fine silver jewelry.
Is 925 sterling silver fake silver?
No — 925 sterling silver is the opposite of fake silver. The 925 stamp is a legally-enforced purity guarantee that the alloy contains at least 92.5% pure silver. What people sometimes mistake for "fake silver" is silver-plated jewelry (a thin silver coating over a base metal like brass or copper) or silver-toned costume jewelry (no silver content at all). Genuine 925 sterling silver is durable real silver and will keep its silver content forever — it cannot wear off or be removed because the silver is alloyed throughout the metal, not just plated on the surface.
Why is 925 silver so cheap compared to gold?
925 silver is cheaper than gold for two reasons. First, the raw spot price of silver is dramatically lower than gold — in 2026, silver runs roughly $30 per troy ounce while gold runs roughly $2,400 per troy ounce, an 80x difference. Second, silver is more abundant geologically — global silver mine production is about 25,000 tonnes per year vs. about 3,000 tonnes for gold. Despite the lower price, 925 sterling silver is genuinely fine jewelry — durable, hypoallergenic for most wearers, and used by every major luxury house. Cheaper does not mean lower quality. See our precious metal guide for full pricing context.
Is 925 sterling silver good quality?
Yes — 925 sterling silver is the international standard for fine silver jewelry and is considered high quality by every gemological and jewelry-trade authority. It is used by Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Chanel, Bvlgari, and every other luxury jeweler for their silver lines. The 92.5% purity is the optimal balance of softness for crafting beauty (pure silver) and hardness for daily wear (the 7.5% copper alloy adds structural integrity). Anything higher purity than 925 (like 950 or 999 fine silver) is too soft for everyday rings.
Does 925 sterling silver tarnish?
Yes — 925 sterling silver does tarnish naturally over time, but tarnishing is a surface-level chemical reaction that polishes off completely. Sterling silver tarnishes because the 7.5% copper in the alloy reacts with sulfur compounds in the air. The pure silver itself does not tarnish meaningfully — it is the copper component reacting. Tarnish is removed by polishing with a silver cloth or a quick dip in silver cleaner, and proper storage (airtight bag, anti-tarnish strips) prevents most tarnishing entirely. Our jewelry care guide covers full tarnish prevention.
What does the 925 stamp on jewelry mean?
The 925 stamp on jewelry is an internationally-recognized purity hallmark indicating the piece contains 92.5% pure silver. The stamp typically appears on the inside of rings, on the back of pendants, or near the clasp on chains. Variations include ".925", "S925", "Sterling", "STER", or simply "925". In the UK, additional hallmarks may include the lion passant (sterling silver standard mark) and an Assay Office town mark. In the US, the FTC requires the stamp on any item described as sterling silver. A piece with no stamp at all is not necessarily fake but cannot be sold legally as sterling silver in most jurisdictions.
How can you tell if 925 sterling silver is real?
Five reliable tests. First, look for the 925, .925, S925, or Sterling stamp on the piece. Second, the magnet test: real silver is non-magnetic, so if a magnet sticks, it is not solid silver. Third, the polish test: if you rub real sterling silver gently with a white cloth, you will see slight black tarnish on the cloth (the copper oxidizing) — fake silver leaves no residue. Fourth, the ice test: real silver has the highest thermal conductivity of any metal, so an ice cube placed on real silver melts dramatically faster than on fake silver. Fifth, for definitive testing, take the piece to a jeweler for an XRF (X-ray fluorescence) test, which reads the exact metal composition without damaging the piece.
What is the difference between 925 silver and sterling silver?
There is no difference — "925 silver" and "sterling silver" are the same material described two different ways. "Sterling silver" is the traditional English term, used since the 12th century to describe the 92.5% silver alloy. "925" is the modern international purity standard expressed as parts per thousand. Both refer to the same 92.5% silver / 7.5% copper alloy. You may see jewelry stamped "STERLING", "925", ".925", "S925", or all of the above on the same piece — all are equivalent. The phrasing varies by country and era, but the metal is identical.
Is 925 sterling silver worth money?
Yes — 925 sterling silver has real material value tied to the silver spot price. As of 2026, a piece of 925 sterling silver is worth approximately $0.85–$1.00 per gram in raw silver content (calculated from the silver spot price of ~$30/oz × 92.5% purity). A 10-gram sterling silver chain has roughly $9–$10 in raw silver value alone, before craftsmanship, brand, or design premium. Antique or designer sterling silver pieces can be worth significantly more than their melt value due to rarity and provenance. Sterling silver scrap can be sold to refiners or pawn shops, though these markets typically pay 50–70% of spot value.
Real 925 Sterling Silver — Hallmarked, Tested & Made to Last.
Every piece of Aquamarise sterling silver is genuine 925 alloy — XRF-tested before manufacturing, hallmarked, and handcrafted in solid sterling all the way through. Never plated, never silver-tone, never silver-filled.
Backed by our lifetime warranty on workmanship and full transparency on metal composition. From engagement rings to anniversary bands to one-of-a-kind statement pieces, our sterling silver is the same 92.5% alloy used by every major luxury jeweler — at honest pricing.
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